Now you see them - Now you don't

Just as each season brings has its own character, so Riga's character changes with each season. Each and every Spring the city explodes with outdoor cafes, bars and restaurants. It would seem that it is mandatory for all the normal indoor bars to have their own area outside. This usually achieved by building an outdoor deck attached to the building, putting on a cover and voila - an outdoor area.

However it is in the squares that the biggest metamorphosis ( impressive huh !) takes place. Both the Livu and Dome square transform themselves into a teaming mass of cafes and bars. Every year they become more and more impressive and sophisticated. This year saw the advent of a glass panelled cafes complete with gas heaters. They tell me that this one might actually see the winter out.

One restaurant in Dome square called "13 chairs" because normally that is all the chairs that are inside the restaurant - could be called 113 chairs as it explodes onto Dome square.

Along with this outdoor extravaganza, then the summer characters appear.

The "dancing" Lady sets up her patch in Livu square, complete with pre-recorded music and proceeds to dance. Actually she continuously spins rounds. - God only know how she feels after a day's dancing !

The we have the street artists, who will draw your portrait for a small fee. There are two of them, one you wanders around the square cigarette in mouth, and plugged into his CD player, never actually seen him draw anyone. The other is more of entrepreneur, he draws the unsuspecting who have chosen to sit and enjoy a coffee/beer and then "presents" the finished article. I think he works on the percentage principle.

In the area close to the Freedom Monument ( see picture) there is a wonderful Lady who appears every day complete with xylophone ( a children's one) - and spends the rest of the happily banging away on the keys. I think she could be termed a musical improviser - and has never been know to play the same tune twice !

Across the whole of the old town the street are awash with music, with people of all ages playing their instrument of choice -accordion, Cello, violins, saxophones etc. In the case of the latter the saxophonist has an interesting musical style. My personal favourites are the children - some of whom are simply magical. There they stand playing their instruments, to an unbelievable high standard. Many are as young as 6-8 years old.

They all have one thing in common, in their own individual way they provide entertainment to the passers by, who in turn can reward them as they see fit.

Unlike the beggars, they add to the character of the city.

This year has seen a new innovation - rickshaws - That's right we have rickshaws in Riga. Usually propelled by young students, in mid term break - -they carry up to two people round the Old City. Have not tried it myself, as the thought of sitting in the back of a rickshaw, being bounced all over ( did I mention all the streets in the old city are cobblestones ?) - Can you imagine the state of your rear end at the end of the trip ?

But just as these outdoor cafes and bars, along with the characters you inhabit them, seem to appear as if by magic - so they disappear in the same way, making way for the chill of the autumn and winter months.

Just as I asked about "them" ( See unsung heroes) - so I wonder where do these bars and cafes go - likewise the characters.

One thing is sure that come next April/May they will be back - to add color and life to the Old City.

For me I had my (probably) last walk on the beach this weekend - beautiful - You did not know Latvia has the best beaches in Northern Europe ?- a story for another time, perhaps when the time comes when instead of walking in the sea, you can walk on the sea !!